Quindim — Brazil's glossy golden coconut-yolk custards
Quindim is a Brazilian baked custard made from egg yolks, sugar and grated coconut, cooked in small buttered moulds in a water bath and turned out to reveal a shiny, translucent golden top over a chewy coconut base. It descends from the egg-yolk sweets of Portuguese convents, reimagined with coconut in colonial north-eastern Brazil, and its name is thought to come from an African word for tenderness or charm.
i. Origin & history
Portugal has one of Europe's richest traditions of egg-yolk sweets, much of it developed in convents from the medieval period onwards. Nuns used egg whites to starch linen and clarify wine, the story goes, and turned the leftover yolks into custards and confections with sugar from Portugal's Atlantic colonies — ovos moles, pastéis de nata, toucinho do céu. One of these, often cited as the ancestor of quindim, is brisa do Lis from Leiria, a small, glossy custard of yolks, sugar and ground almonds.
In colonial Brazil, on the sugar plantations of the North-east, that tradition met two new elements. Almonds were imported and expensive, while coconuts were abundant, so coconut took their place. And the cooks in the plantation kitchens were mostly enslaved Africans and their descendants, whose skill and taste shaped Brazilian sweets profoundly. The name quindim is generally traced to a Bantu language spoken in Angola or the Congo region, where a related word suggests charm, fondness or delicacy — a reminder of who was doing the cooking.
Quindim is particularly associated with Bahia and Pernambuco, but it is now made and sold throughout Brazil, in bakeries, cafés and docerias. It is a fixture of birthday tables and wedding sweet buffets, where small quindins are served in paper cases alongside brigadeiros and cocadas.
A large version baked in a ring mould, called quindão, is cut into slices. Quindim is sometimes compared with flan or crème caramel, but it contains no milk and is far denser and richer, closer in spirit to the Portuguese yolk sweets than to a milk custard.
ii. How quindim separates into two layers
A good quindim has two distinct layers when turned out: a smooth, glossy, almost translucent yellow top and a chewier, golden coconut base. Nobody layers them by hand. As the custard bakes, the grated coconut — lighter than the dense, sugary yolk mixture — rises and floats to the top of the mould, where it browns slightly. When the quindim is turned out, that coconut layer becomes the base, and the pure yolk-and-sugar custard that settled at the bottom becomes the shiny top.
The gloss comes from the sugar-coated mould. Buttering the moulds and dusting them with sugar creates a thin layer that melts into a syrup during baking and gives the top its glassy shine. Without that, the surface is matt and the quindim may stick.
The ratio of sugar to yolks is high, which is what gives quindim its dense, fudgy texture and its translucency: sugar raises the setting temperature of the yolks and stops them forming a firm, opaque egg custard. The water bath keeps the heat gentle so the yolks do not curdle or develop an eggy, sulphurous flavour.
Many cooks strain the yolks through a sieve to remove the thin membranes and chalazae (the stringy white cords), which can give an eggy flavour and a less smooth texture. Letting the mixture rest briefly before baking allows air bubbles to rise, keeping the top smooth.
iii. Ingredients
Makes 12 servings · scroll the side panel to adjust
- 12 egg yolks, at room temperature
- 250 g caster sugar
- 100 g fresh or unsweetened desiccated coconut, finely grated
- 30 g unsalted butter, melted
- 60 ml coconut milk
- ¼ tsp salt
- 20 g soft butter, for the moulds
- 3 tbsp caster sugar, for the moulds
Use very fresh, deep-yellow yolks; they provide the colour and flavour. Freshly grated coconut gives the most authentic, juicy result; finely shredded desiccated coconut is the practical alternative — if using desiccated, the coconut milk helps rehydrate it. Some recipes add a tablespoon of flour for a firmer set; it is optional. The leftover egg whites freeze well and can go into meringues or macarons. You will need 12 small moulds — dariole moulds, a 12-hole muffin tin or small ramekins — or a 20 cm ring mould for a large quindão.
iv. Method
- Heat the oven to 180 °C (350 °F), or 160 °C fan, and boil a kettle. Brush the moulds thickly with soft butter and coat with caster sugar, tapping out the excess.
- Pass the yolks through a fine sieve into a bowl. Add the sugar and stir gently with a spoon until the sugar is mostly dissolved; do not whisk in air.
- Stir in the coconut, melted butter, coconut milk and salt. Leave the mixture to rest for 10 minutes, then stir once more.
- Divide among the moulds, filling them almost to the top and stirring the mixture between pours so the coconut is evenly distributed.
- Set the moulds in a roasting tin and pour in boiling water to come halfway up their sides. Bake for 30–40 minutes (50–60 minutes for a large ring) until the tops are golden and firm and the custard is set when gently pressed.
- Lift the moulds out of the water and cool to room temperature, then refrigerate for at least 2 hours.
- To unmould, run a thin knife around each one and turn out onto a plate, so the glossy yellow side is on top. Serve in paper cases.
v. Tips & common mistakes
- Sieve the yolks. Removing the membranes and chalazae gives a smoother texture and avoids an eggy taste.
- Stir, don't whisk. Whisking adds bubbles that rise and mar the glossy top. Stir gently until the sugar is dissolved.
- Butter and sugar the moulds generously. This is what gives the shiny surface and allows the quindins to slide out.
- Use a water bath. Direct heat curdles the yolks and makes them rubbery and sulphurous.
- Stir between pours. The coconut floats quickly; stir as you fill so each mould gets an even amount.
- Chill before unmoulding. Warm quindins are fragile; they firm up and release cleanly once cold.
vi. Variations
Quindão is the large version baked in a ring mould and sliced. Quindim de maracujá adds passion fruit juice. Quindim de laranja uses orange zest. Some modern bakers make quindim with cream cheese or a lighter version with a few whole eggs. In Portugal, the related brisas do Lis are made with almonds instead of coconut.
Other yolk-rich and coconut desserts include Goa's layered bebinca, Thai pumpkin custard sankaya and Latin American cocadas. For milk-based caramel custards, see Venezuela's quesillo and Brazil's layered pavê.
vii. Serving & storage
Serve quindins chilled or at room temperature, in small paper cases, as part of a dessert table, with coffee, or at the end of a Brazilian meal. They are very rich and sweet, so one or two is plenty.
Kept covered in the fridge, quindins keep for 3–4 days. The glossy top may become slightly sticky after a day or two. They can be frozen for up to a month, though the texture becomes slightly softer after thawing.
viii. Common questions
What is quindim?
Quindim is a Brazilian baked custard of egg yolks, sugar and grated coconut, turned out to show a glossy yellow top and a chewy coconut base. It is a classic of Brazilian parties and bakeries.
Where does quindim come from?
It comes from colonial north-eastern Brazil, especially Bahia and Pernambuco. It developed from Portuguese convent yolk sweets, with coconut replacing almonds, in kitchens run largely by enslaved African cooks.
What does quindim mean?
The name is thought to come from a Bantu language of Africa, from a word suggesting charm, fondness or delicacy. In Brazilian Portuguese it is also used affectionately.
Why does quindim have two layers?
During baking, the coconut floats to the top of the mould and the dense yolk custard settles below. When turned out, the coconut forms the base and the yolk custard becomes the glossy top.
Is quindim gluten-free?
The traditional recipe is gluten-free, made only of yolks, sugar, coconut and butter. Some recipes add a little wheat flour, so check if you need it gluten-free.
How long does quindim keep?
About 3–4 days covered in the fridge, and up to a month frozen.